Stage 1: The Portofino peninsula

The first stage of the long-distance hike leads from Camogli across the "Parco naturale regional di Portofino" nature reserve to the former fishing village of Portofino. On the way there is the possibility to descend to the monastery of San Fruttuoso, which is located in a bay on the Portofino peninsula and which can only be reached by boat or hiking trail.

Stage 1 is ideal for warming up if you plan well: if you spend two nights in a row in Camogli (arrival day + stage 1), you can leave most of your luggage in the hotel on the first day (see Overnight in Camogli). A second night in Camogli will probably go easy on your wallet: Portofino is one of the most exclusive and expensive places in Italy. Those who stay overnight in Portofino are more likely to travel with their own yacht than with a hiking backpack ...

Since I used the Sentiero Liguria as a guide for the entire long-distance hike, I also took over its route for stage 1, which leaves no corner of the peninsula. However, I recommend that you make use of the abbreviations described below: Without any abbreviations, the stage is very strenuous and lengthy, even with a half-empty backpack.

You can find my recommendations for pensions and hotels for stage 1 here: Accommodation in Camogli or Accommodation in Sestri Levante.

The long-distance hike starts with a steep ascent: from Camogli, a stepped path leads uphill to the "San Rocco" district, 200 meters higher. There is a small grocery store with a bakery and a viewing platform right in front of the church - an ideal place for a short break (waypoint 1). The official Sentiero Liguria leads from here down to the western tip of the peninsula. If you prefer to save your strength for the later descent to the monastery, you can also hike directly from waypoint 2 to waypoint 3 (time saving approx. 1:30 h). If, on the other hand, you are planning to skip the monastery complex anyway, the longer, but much more spectacular route to the tip of the peninsula and back is worthwhile.

The ascent from waypoint 3 leads mostly through forest. Once at the top, you can make a short detour to the view and the picnic benches at "Semaforo nuovo" (waypoint 4). Now it goes relatively flat to the crossing point where the descent to the monastery begins (waypoint 5). On my hike, I decided against this descent due to the weather conditions and instead took a shortcut. According to feedback from Heike and Dany, the long descent to the Benedictine Abbey of San Fruttuoso is very worthwhile (see this comment). If you skip the descent to the monastery (waypoint 6) and the subsequent ascent, you will save about two hours of hiking time up to waypoint 7. Instead, it goes down a wide forest hiking path in a comfortable curve until you meet the official path again at waypoint 7.

On the last kilometer the landscape becomes more lovely, from time to time the port of Portofino with its yachts can be seen from afar. Before you plunge into the lively hustle and bustle at Portofino harbor at the end of the hike, you should briefly familiarize yourself with the departure times of the buses at waypoint 8.

Onward/return journey: From Portofino, take the bus to S.Margherita Ligure train station. Bus tickets are sold at machines (instructions: press selection button 1 for trips to S.Margherita Ligure or Rapallo). In S.Margherita Ligure you change to the train and go either back to Camogli (variant with two nights there) or directly to Sestri Levante.

Waypoint 1: Small grocery store
Waypoint 2: The Sentiero Liguria turns right here. Shortcut option: continue straight ahead on the direct path to waypoint 3
Waypoint 3: Ascent
Waypoint 4: Lookout point with benches at Semaforo nuovo
Waypoint 5: Fork in the road: Right goes steeply down to the Abbey of San Fruttuoso. If you want it less strenuous, take the paved path to Portofino, which leads around on the other side of the mountain (to waypoint 7)
Waypoint 6: San Fruttuoso Abbey
Waypoint 7: The comfortable path ends here again on the Sentiero Liguria
Waypoint 8: Bus stop for the return journey

Accommodation in Camogli

The Ligurian coastal town of Camogli lies – squeezed between mountains and sea – directly on the edge of the "Parco Naturale Regionale di Portofino." Despite the dense development, some of which are quite tall, Camogli is very picturesque: Facade painting has a long tradition here and gives the town an almost magnificent appearance. The Hotel La Camogliese is housed in one of the ornately decorated buildings. I highly recommend it! The hotel's plus points, in my opinion, are the newly renovated rooms and bathrooms,...

Ligurian coast Cinque Terre long-distance hike, stage 2 02

Accommodation in Sestri Levante

On my hike, I didn't stay overnight in Sestri Levante, but instead took the train from Camogli in the morning (about 30 minutes by regional train). My favorite place to stay in Sestri Levante, however, would have been the guesthouse "Calma di Vento": It's located on the edge of the old town on the upper floor of an olive oil factory with a showroom and tours (left: B&B Calma di Vento, olive oil: Frantoio Bo).

2 Comments

Beate
18 May 2023
Hello Frank, on stage 1: can you also descend to the right at the Chiesa San Nicolo di Capodimonte and go past Il mulino da Drin (Via San Nicolo) to the headland and meet your route again there? Or is this path blocked?
1. Frank
  18 May 2023
  Hello Beate,
  I think that should be possible. There are also some restaurants and bars listed that are open. As far as I can tell from a distance, a sudden road closure is very unlikely. Your idea is definitely a worthwhile option!
  Good luck and have fun hiking!
  Frank

Cinque Terre & Liguria: Stage 1

Map for stage 1

Facts about stage 1